How to Tell If a Solar Installer Is Legit: Vetting Checklist
Not all solar installers are scams — but enough of them are that you need a system to tell the difference. This checklist helps homeowners vet solar companies before signing any contract.
How to Tell If a Solar Installer Is Legitimate: A Vetting Checklist Before You Sign
Disclaimer: This article is informational, not legal advice. Always verify contractor credentials with your state licensing board before signing any agreement.
Overview
"Are solar installers all scams?" It is one of the most frequently asked questions on r/solar, and for good reason. The residential solar industry has a fraud problem. Rooftop solar has attracted thousands of legitimate, skilled installers — and at least as many operations whose business model depends on deception.
Homeowners in Los Angeles ask: "Are the solar panel companies knocking on my door legit?" In Minnesota, they wonder: "What is the deal with door-to-door solar rebate salesmen?" Across the country, the same uncertainty persists: how do you separate the real companies from the scams?
The answer: you do not rely on the salesperson's word. You run a systematic background check before you sign anything. This guide provides a step-by-step vetting framework that any homeowner can execute — no legal expertise required.
The Red Flag Quick Screen
Before digging into detailed research, apply this rapid filter. If any of these conditions are present, end the conversation immediately.
- The salesperson refuses to leave when asked
- You are told the offer expires today
- You cannot get the full contract in writing before signing
- The company name does not appear in any state licensing database
- The salesperson cannot provide a physical business address
- You are asked to sign on a tablet without seeing the full document
- The price changes when you hesitate
- The company asks for full payment before installation begins
- References cannot be verified independently
One checkmark is enough. Multiple checkmarks mean you are dealing with a scam operation. Leave immediately.
Phase 1: Verify the Company Exists
Check State Licensing
Every state that regulates solar contractors maintains a public licensing database. This is your first and most important stop.
- California: Contractors State License Board (CSLB) at cslb.ca.gov
- Florida: Department of Business and Professional Regulation at myfloridalicense.com
- South Carolina: South Carolina Department of Labor, Licensing and Regulation at llr.sc.gov
- Arizona: Registrar of Contractors at roc.az.gov
- New York: Department of State Division of Licensing Services
Search for the exact company name as it appears on the business card or proposal. Look for:
- License status: Must be active, not expired, suspended, or revoked
- License classification: Must include solar (C-46 in California, CVC in Florida, etc.)
- Issue date: A license less than 6 months old is not a dealbreaker but warrants extra scrutiny
- Complaints and disciplinary actions: Any pattern of complaints should be investigated further
Check the Business Entity
Search the company name in your state's Secretary of State business registry. Verify:
- The entity is in good standing
- The registered agent and physical address match what the salesperson provided
- The formation date aligns with the company's claimed history
- There are no recent name changes (a common tactic when rebranding after complaints)
Check for Judgments and Bankruptcies
Search PACER (Public Access to Court Electronic Records) for federal cases involving the company name. Search your local county court records for state-level cases. A company with multiple consumer lawsuits, mechanics liens filed against it by subcontractors, or recent bankruptcy filings should be treated as high risk.
Phase 2: Verify the Reviews
The Review Pattern Test
Online reviews can be faked — but fake reviews have detectable patterns.
Signs of fake positive reviews:
- Multiple reviews posted on the same date
- Generic language without specifics ("Great company! Highly recommend!")
- Reviewer accounts with only one review ever posted
- Reviews clustered around a single rating (all 5-star, all 1-star)
- Reviews that all mention the same salesperson by name
Signs of suppressed negative reviews:
- A suspiciously high percentage of 5-star ratings with almost nothing in between
- Negative reviews that are all "not recommended" or hidden by the platform
- The company has changed its business name on review platforms recently
Where to Check
- Better Business Bureau (bbb.org): Look for pattern complaints, not just the letter grade. Read the complaint details and the company's responses.
- Google Maps reviews: Sort by newest. Filter by lowest rating. Read the 1-star and 2-star reviews carefully — they contain the most signal.
- Yelp: Note that Yelp may filter reviews it considers suspicious. Check both recommended and not-recommended reviews.
- SolarReviews and EnergySage: Industry-specific platforms with verified customer review processes.
- Reddit: Search "r/solar [company name]" and "r/solar [company name] scam." The unfiltered Reddit discussion often reveals problems that review platforms miss.
The Reddit Litmus Test
Reddit is uniquely valuable for installer vetting because it is unfiltered, unmonetized by the solar companies, and populated by both victims and industry insiders. Search the company name across r/solar, r/homeowners, r/RealEstate, and r/Scams. If there is a pattern of complaints — ghosting after install, leaking roofs, inflated bills, broken promises — Reddit will have it.
Phase 3: Verify the Proposal
The Three-Quote Rule
Never sign with the first company that gives you a proposal. Get at least three quotes from different installers. This serves two purposes: you will see what competitive pricing actually looks like, and companies that know you are shopping around tend to sharpen their pencils — or reveal their unwillingness to compete, which is its own red flag.
When comparing quotes, normalize them to the same metric: cost per watt. Divide the total system cost by the system size in watts. A quote of $25,000 for a 8 kW system is $3.13/watt. A quote of $22,000 for a 7 kW system is $3.14/watt. This is the only way to compare apples to apples.
The Equipment Question
Ask each installer to specify the exact make and model of every major component:
- Solar panels (manufacturer, model, wattage)
- Inverter (manufacturer, model, type — string, microinverter, or optimizer)
- Racking and mounting system
- Monitoring system
A legitimate installer will provide this without hesitation. An installer who will not — or who says "we use top-tier equipment" without naming it — is concealing something.
The Warranty Breakdown
Ask for warranty terms in writing, separated by category:
- Panel performance warranty: Typically 25 years, guaranteeing a minimum output percentage
- Panel product warranty: Covers manufacturing defects, typically 10-25 years
- Inverter warranty: Typically 10-12 years, extendable to 25 years for a fee
- Workmanship warranty: Covers installation defects like roof leaks. Should be at least 5-10 years. This is the warranty that matters most if the installer does poor work.
- Production guarantee: If the company promises a certain level of energy production, get the specific terms — what happens if the system underproduces, and who measures it.
The Timeline and Payment Schedule
A legitimate installer will provide a written timeline and a payment schedule that protects you:
- Deposit: 10% or less, or the legal maximum in your state
- Milestone payments: Tied to permits approved, equipment delivered, installation complete, inspection passed, and permission to operate granted
- Final payment: Only after the system is operational and producing power
An installer who demands 50% or more upfront — or full payment before installation — should be rejected regardless of other credentials.
Phase 4: Verify the Contract
The Contract Review Checklist
Before signing, the contract must include:
- Full legal name and address of the company
- Contractor license number
- Detailed scope of work including all equipment specifications
- Total system cost, broken down by component
- Payment schedule with specific milestones
- Estimated completion date
- Warranty terms for all components and workmanship
- Production estimate in kilowatt-hours per year
- Procedure for addressing system underperformance
- Cancellation and refund policy
- Notice of the three-day right to cancel (federally required for in-home sales)
- No blank spaces or "to be determined" fields
The Financing Trap Detection
If the contract includes financing, verify these specific elements:
- Dealer fees. Solar loans routinely include hidden dealer fees of 20-35% added to the principal. A $25,000 system may actually cost $33,000. The salesperson may call this "the cost of the low interest rate." Ask: "What is the dealer fee, in dollars, on this loan?"
- Prepayment penalties. Some solar loans penalize early payoff. Verify there is no prepayment penalty.
- Interest rate vs. APR. The APR includes fees and reflects the true cost. The interest rate alone does not. Compare APRs.
The Lien Disclosure
If the contract creates a lien on your property through a UCC-1 filing, this must be disclosed. Ask: "Does this contract place any lien, security interest, or UCC filing on my property?" If the answer is yes and was not proactively disclosed, the company was hiding it.
Phase 5: The Gut Check
After all the research, trust your instincts. If something feels wrong, it probably is. Specific feelings to take seriously:
- You feel rushed. Legitimate solar is a considered purchase. Nobody needs to sign today.
- You feel confused but the salesperson seems unconcerned. A good installer wants you to understand what you are buying.
- The deal seems too good to be true. In residential solar, it almost always is.
- You would be embarrassed to tell someone what you paid. If you would not share the numbers with a financially savvy friend, the numbers are probably bad.
FAQ
How long does proper vetting take?
A thorough check takes 1-2 hours of research spread over a day or two. This is time well spent for a transaction that will affect your home for 25 years. Anyone pushing you to skip this step is not acting in your interest.
What if the company has great reviews but is not licensed?
Do not proceed. Licensing is a minimum legal requirement, not an optional credential. An unlicensed installer is operating illegally, and you will have no recourse through the state licensing board if something goes wrong.
Is it safe to use a national company like Sunrun or Sunnova?
National companies are licensed and insured, but they face thousands of consumer complaints about sales tactics, contract terms, and post-installation service. The same vetting process applies. Size is not a guarantee of quality.
What if the installer says my state does not require a license?
Some states have minimal or no solar contractor licensing. In these states, verify other credentials: NABCEP certification (North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners), membership in SEIA (Solar Energy Industries Association), and significant local installation history.
Should I hire an installer who subcontracts the work?
Subcontracting introduces risk. If the installer who sells you the system does not employ the crew who installs it, find out who the subcontractor is and vet them separately. Ask who is responsible — and contractually liable — if the subcontractor damages your roof.
Got blindsided by a solar deal that did not deliver?
You may have a claim — and the law may make the company that defrauded you pay your legal fees. Our 2-minute eligibility check screens for the consumer-protection statutes that apply to your situation (TILA § 130, the FTC Holder Rule, your state UDAP) and connects you with a consumer-protection attorney in our network if you qualify. Free review, no upfront cost, no obligation.